Filed under Color Trademarks

And so clears the red cloud…

Just three weeks ago, after seven long months, the US Court of Appeals has finally rendered its decision in the case of the Red-Lacquered Sole.

In case you haven’t been following, last year the high-end footwear designer, Christian Louboutin filed a claim against Yves Saint Laurent for infringing a registered trademark, after they manufactured monochromatic shoes that incorporated a red lacquered sole, which has been the signature mark of the Louboutin brand for the last 20 years. The District Court that heard the case attempted to tackle the question of whether a single color can serve as a trademark in the fashion industry and went so far as to implement a per se rule, that all such marks are invalid and thus not protected by trademark law.

Louboutin, having his “Red Sole Mark” registered with the USPTO for the last four years, filed to appeal the decision that would deem it invalid, and the appeal was held back in January. After months of waiting, the Appellate Court finally came down with their decision on September 5th, (I’ve been busy) and I think both sides have walked away with a win.

The Court found that the district court erred in interpreting the doctrine of aesthetic functionality by implementing a per se rule, and found that it would be inconsistent with the 1995 Qualitex Co. v. Jacobsen Products Co., (514 U.S. 159) decision, to deny a single color mark protection if it met the requirements for a valid mark set out under the Lanham Act. The debate comes down to whether granting trademark protection to a single color monopolizes a design element that inhibits competition in the marketplace, which is based on the theory that color has what’s called “aesthetic functionality”. But the Court reasoned that, ”distinctive and arbitrary arrangements of predominantly ornamental features that do not hinder potential competitors from entering the same market with differently dressed versions of the product are non-functional, and [are] hence eligible for [trademark protection].”‘ Fabrication Enters., Inc., 64 F.3d at 59.

With this in mind, the Court dove into the necessary factual analysis to determine whether the Red Sole Mark has acquired “secondary meaning” and warrants the protection Louboutin has been fighting for. The secondary meaning of a trademark is present when the mark identifies the source without performing any other significant function. The evidence offered in the case included records of advertising expenditures, media coverage and sales success over the last 20 years. After review, the Court found that Louboutin had in fact established a “limited secondary meaning,” meaning that through the company’s longstanding effort and success, they have established a worldwide association with the color red on the sole of a shoe, when in contrast with the upper sole, which does not extend to instances when it is the same color as the rest of the shoe. The Court found, as I previously expected it should, that it’s the “pop” of contrasting color in the design that consumers have come to recognize as the Louboutin signature. In fact the opinion references a study done in which consumers did not associate a monochromatic red shoe with Louboutin as often as they associated a contrasting-color design.

This factual finding is the basis for the new limitation on the very valid Louboutin “Red Sole Mark” and as such, the Court further held that YSL’s monochromatic red shoes did not fit the description of a “red lacquered outsole that contrasts with the color of the adjoining upper“, thus there was no need to analyze whether infringement occurred, and the injunction was thrown out.

So in the end, the Louboutin got to keep their trademark and YSL was free to make their monochromatic ruby slippers. Hopefully the decision will keep both sides happy in the years to come, and offer Louboutin more concrete protection against the more suspect infringers that produce cheap imitation Louboutins.

Case Closed.

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For the Love of Red

Yesterday, the three Second Circuit judges in New York got to hear an appeal in what I can only imagine was one of the best dressed courtrooms they’ve ever seen. Their job was to determine not the factual merits of the case of Louboutin v. YSL, which is the job for the trial court, but two issues of law. Did Judge Victor Marrero err in his interpretation of trademark law, by ruling that colors are inherently functional, thus unworthy of trademark protection? And if so, should an injunction be so ordered, or is a retrial necessary to determine a likelihood of confusion?

Clad in a navy pin-striped suit, with the support of friend and President of the CDFA, Dianne Von Furstenberg by his side, Louboutin and his lawyers asked that their injunction denial be overturned. The outcome of this appeal will immediately be taken into consideration by Marrero, who agreed to hold off on the decision to cancel the Red Sole Mark, until after the appeal.

Christian Louboutin & Dianne Von Furstenberg, who "who swooped into the courtroom wearing gold-rimmed aviators and a long black sparkly knit sweater over an off-white turtleneck and black skirt." (WWD)

YSL created a legitimate and reasonable hurdle for Louboutin to overcome.    Continue reading

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A Designer Brief-case

Louboutin v. YSL (778 F.Supp. 2d 445)

Louboutin filed this action back in June for claims that YSL infringed on “The Red Sole Mark,” which was the trademark registered to them in 2008, for the use of the color red on the outsoles of their shoes. This opinion touches on an interesting question… is the use of a single color alone protectable by trademark under the Lanham Act?  The Court held that it was unlikely that Louboutin would be able to prove their trademark was valid, and denied their preliminary motion for an injunction. The validity of the Red Sole Mark is potentially in jeopardy, as YSL’s counterclaim called for its cancellation.

The Louboutin brand has undoubtedly established a certain notoriety as well as a prevalent association with the use of a red outsole in the world of fashion. The Court narrows in on the question of whether or not color can be functional. A design is functional if “its ‘aesthetic value’ is able to confer a significant benefit that cannot practically be duplicated by the use of alternative designs” (Restatement (Third) on Unfair Competition). Furthermore, color serves a functional purpose if it is “essential to the use or purpose of the article or affects [its] cost or quality” (Qualitex Co. v. Jacobsen Products).

In order for a designer’s color trademark to be considered invalid, its purpose has to go beyond merely identifying the designer or its source. A color that serves a functional purpose gives way to unfair competition, inhibits artistic freedom and is strictly limited by law. Typically, such trademarks have existed in more industrial settings, where functionality is much easier to define. The color orange, for example, when placed on a construction worker’s jacket, or the blue of a dye that’s used in a science or medical lab to contrast certain things under a microscope. These colors are so functional to their products that if trademarked, their production would be monopolized. Applying these principles to fashion design, the Court provides us with a uniquely artistic discussion.

This type of case is difficult specifically because it questions the use of a single color. Other trademarks on color are typically those on color combinations or patterns involving several colors. For example, Burberry holds a valid trademark on their “check” pattern colors and Louis Vuitton of their monogram pattern.

In their discussion of Louboutin’s use of the color red, the Court employs an interesting hypothetical legal battle where Picasso sues Monet for using the same shade of blue that was the hallmark of his Blue Period to paint his water lilies. Fashion’s use of color is compared vigorously to high art, and it’s noted that artists should enjoy the freedom to pick from “every streak of the rainbow.” When you’re in the field of fashion design, the means to express your art are vital. Fashion designers are at the mercy of trend demands, and the use of a color could be vital to another designer. Fashion design is the commercial business of manufacturing ornamental beauty, in which the Court finds color to be essential to robust competition, thus functional.

  “…color in turn elementally performs a creative function; it aims to please or to be useful, not to identify and advertise a commercial source.” (p.452)

Louboutin’s camp even said themselves that using the color gives his shoes “energy,” that red is “sexy,” flirty,” and “engaging,” and that it “attracts men to the women that wear [his] shoes.”  Because of the serious doubts casts on the validity of the Red Sole Mark, the court denied Louboutin’s injunction, and set a hearing for the cancellation of the mark, which the rest of the claims would rely on.

As far as YSL’s case, it’s crucial to understand that the four models Louboutin called into question were actually monochromatic red. They were the solid red versions of shoes from his Cruise 2011 collection: the Tribute, Palais, Tributoo, and Woodstock heels. I have to say, I agree with the court that Louboutin stretched his boundaries a bit, and foolishly. Now his trademark is under the microscope, and I do think he has something valuable to protect. Also, it’s not really realistic to attack YSL for infringement. It’s not like people are buying YSL shoes because they look like Louboutins. I know if I were wearing YSL pumps, I’d be pretty psyched enough about that fact. And if I wanted to buy knockoff Louboutins I’m not going to spend the same amount at YSL, I’m going to check out Steve Madden or ALDO. Maybe it’s personal? After all, they used to share a label.

YSL's "Tribute"

YSL "Palais"

The Court deems the trademark to be far too broad, and unfairly registered without limitations. Louboutin tried to argue that he uses a specific “Chinese red,” and that his trademark only applies to high-heeled shoes. However, as the trademark stands to be read, it only applies to the use of “red” on the outsoles of “women’s footwear.” Since this wasn’t a hearing to amend their trademark language, these arguments failed. The case was decided in light of the language of the mark.

I think the court gave an amazingly poetic and thorough analysis to these claims, but for me there’s something missing in the discussion. I agree that it’s unfair to allow color trademarks in general, but there’s something to be said about Louboutin’s use of red as distinct from the color of the rest of the shoe. That’s what Louboutin is known for; gorgeous heels with a brightly contrasting and eye-catching red outsole, not red shoes. Allowing the injunction to succeed would certainly prevent YSL from selling any monochromatic red shoes, which also served a specific styling purpose. YSL claimed that these models were specifically coordinated to his Cruise 2011 clothing line.

I’d hate to see Louboutin lose his trademark, but I think the language needs to be amended. Maybe a cancellation would give Louboutin an opportunity to amend the language and try again. Or maybe I still have a lot to learn… Either way, there’s no doubt that Louboutin makes some incredible footwear, and that red sole gives him away every time.

Louboutin "Daffodile Brodee"

Sparkly Louboutins

Lou-Booties

Don’t forget to listen to J.Lo’s song, Louboutins :)

And check out this article on how YOU can turn any of your shoes into Louboutins.

*More to come on the International Law of this case.

UPDATE: Read a follow up to this case at Diamonds are a Louboutin’s Best Friend

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